Apollonas and beyond
Our first task for the day was to pick up our hire car, the plan being to explore further afield without the thrills and drama that the local bus provides. Since there are several rental car agencies in our street it didn’t take long to find a suitable option, and we were soon on our way in our cute little Citroen C1.
It was more winding roads and amazing views as we headed to the north of the island, our target being the little fishing village of Apollonas. But on the way there was much to see and appreciate as we drove up the coast and into the mountains.
Apollonas has been inhabited since antiquity, mainly because of an ancient marble quarry nearby. It was also the port from which Naxos marble was shipped while the quarry was in operation. We arrived in the fishing village at lunch time, which was perfect. There were a couple of tavernas open, and all keen for our business. Things are very quiet at the moment on many of the islands, and it’s a wonder anyone in hospitality can survive in these far-away villages during the off-season.
The proprietress at the taverna we chose seated us at a lovely table for two overlooking the peaceful bay, and served us a delicious Dakos (Greek salad with rusks, tomato, olives, and soft goat cheese) and “small fried fish”. We didn’t even think about what that might be, but turns out they were small, they were fried, they were fish......... and they were WHOLE!!! Okay, when in Greece......... just best not to think about the fact that you’re eating the head, the teeny little bones, the innards, the tail, the LOT!!!!!
The proprietress at the taverna we chose seated us at a lovely table for two overlooking the peaceful bay, and served us a delicious Dakos (Greek salad with rusks, tomato, olives, and soft goat cheese) and “small fried fish”. We didn’t even think about what that might be, but turns out they were small, they were fried, they were fish......... and they were WHOLE!!! Okay, when in Greece......... just best not to think about the fact that you’re eating the head, the teeny little bones, the innards, the tail, the LOT!!!!!
No sooner was lunch served, than we had a whole set of new little friends, keen to make our acquaintance.
During lunch it had begun to rain a little, so we headed back to our tiny car and continued on, but not before stopping to see the marble quarry, and the never-finished statue of Dionysus (Apollo), otherwise known as the Kouros, lying on his back in the middle of the quarry.
From there we made our way south, through the little mountainous villages of Mesi, Skado and Koronos. We passed several large windmills gracing the tops of the mountains, and the occasional older style, no longer in use.
Just past Koronos, we decided to detour away from the main road to visit Lionas Beach, as friends had enjoyed spending time there last summer. It was worth the winding 8km journey down the mountain, the bay is lovely, and the locals are super friendly. We were welcomed warmly by the team at Delfinaki restaurant, even though we weren’t stopping for lunch. We did choose to try a lovely coconut and honey cake, and they kindly gave us tiny glasses of Raki with honey to try, on the house. On a cold day it would have been lovely, but hubby was driving and I’m a cheap drunk, so we just took a sip so as not to offend. We wondered if perhaps we were their first and only customers for the day!
As we headed back up to the main road, we slowed to look at the remnants of the abandoned emery mines, which looked like they’d downed tools in the middle of the process. Buckets hanging on the cable car still full of ore, the little trucks sitting on the tracks in the shafts. We stopped the car so hubby could clamber up to take a peek inside one of the abandoned shafts.
A little further on we slowed to pass a herd of goats, their bells tinkling as if we were in Switzerland. Further on we stopped to watch another herd clambering up the side of the cliff, marvelling at how sure-footed they are.
Back on the main road, we continued on through familiar turf, taking the same route the bus followed yesterday when we returned from Apeiranthos, through the villages of Filoti, Halki, Galanado, and finally reaching Hora (Naxos Town) late afternoon. The views along the way were as lovely as before - more sheer cliffs, more little windmills, more quaint churches with blue or white domes perched on high, high hills, more views of the neighbouring islands.
During lunch it had begun to rain a little, so we headed back to our tiny car and continued on, but not before stopping to see the marble quarry, and the never-finished statue of Dionysus (Apollo), otherwise known as the Kouros, lying on his back in the middle of the quarry.
From there we made our way south, through the little mountainous villages of Mesi, Skado and Koronos. We passed several large windmills gracing the tops of the mountains, and the occasional older style, no longer in use.
Just past Koronos, we decided to detour away from the main road to visit Lionas Beach, as friends had enjoyed spending time there last summer. It was worth the winding 8km journey down the mountain, the bay is lovely, and the locals are super friendly. We were welcomed warmly by the team at Delfinaki restaurant, even though we weren’t stopping for lunch. We did choose to try a lovely coconut and honey cake, and they kindly gave us tiny glasses of Raki with honey to try, on the house. On a cold day it would have been lovely, but hubby was driving and I’m a cheap drunk, so we just took a sip so as not to offend. We wondered if perhaps we were their first and only customers for the day!
A little further on we slowed to pass a herd of goats, their bells tinkling as if we were in Switzerland. Further on we stopped to watch another herd clambering up the side of the cliff, marvelling at how sure-footed they are.
Back on the main road, we continued on through familiar turf, taking the same route the bus followed yesterday when we returned from Apeiranthos, through the villages of Filoti, Halki, Galanado, and finally reaching Hora (Naxos Town) late afternoon. The views along the way were as lovely as before - more sheer cliffs, more little windmills, more quaint churches with blue or white domes perched on high, high hills, more views of the neighbouring islands.
Finally we reached our starting point, back in Naxos Town, after a really enjoyable day of driving and exploring. Finding a parking spot near our studio apartment was a little challenging, but after a few laps of the area we managed to set down not too far away, all ready for another day of exploring tomorrow. Then it was off to find somewhere different for dinner - this time we chose Elizabeth’s Garden restaurant, for some home-made moussaka, souvlaki, and a lovely green salad. Not a whole fish in sight!!
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