Morning climb to Ano Syros

Syros blessed us with another sunny, sparkly day, albeit with a little more breeze, which was perfect for us, as the plan was to spend the morning walking up to Ano Syros, the medieval settlement of Syros. Founded by the Venetians in 1200, it was built a little like a fortified citadel, so as to protect its inhabitants from pirate attacks. These days it is inhabited by Greek Catholics, and that would explan why there are so many Catholic Churches within a very small area - Panagia Karmilou, Agios Nikolaos, Agios Ioannis, Agios Antonios, Agia Triada, and probably more. It’s also the seat of the Roman Catholic Diocese of Syros and Milos.

As we started our trek near Miaouli Square, the cats of Hermoupolis were enjoying a stretch in the morning sun. Off we went, climbing up the many, many steps until we came to the first church of the day - not yet in Ano Syros - the Holy Cathedral Church of the Transfiguration of the Saviour Christ (or Ekklisia Metamorfosi - Church of the Metamorphosis - which sounds lovely, but butterfly-ish). This one was Greek Orthodox, which I think I’m learning to tell from the level of ornateness compared to the Catholic churches. One of the priests was up a step ladder polishing one of the many, many lamps hanging in the church. From what we could see, he had his work cut out for him!

Onward we trekked, climbing ever further up, up, up towards our destination, past tiny narrow streets where you would really have to get along with your neighbours.

And how would it be if you had to spell this street name every time you were asked for your address?? (I guess it could be the equivalent of “Smith” and there’s no need to spell it for anyone, or have anyone ask “Is there an E on the end of that?”)

The sunny day made for beautiful views along the way, although once we reached Ano Syros, the houses are all so densely jam-packed together it can be hard to see anything but the next house, and the endless steps. Every so often there would be a terrace of some kind, which allowed us to appreciate just how high we were and how beautiful the Aegean Sea looks when it’s sparkling in the sun.

Of all the churches in Ano Syros, we probably saw three or four of them, and we did make it all the way to the very top, to see the Cathedral of Saint George, which is the landmark church that can be seen on the top of the hill (see first photo). Built originally in 1208, it has been destroyed and rebuilt three times, the last time in 1834, resulting in the very unassuming facade of today. The interior is also much simpler than the over-the-top Greek Orthodox churches we’ve seen.

Some of the churches were not labelled in any way that we could see, so we were just guessing based on the map, and some of them were closed, so we just got a passing glance really.

From the terrace below St George we could see across to the Church of the Resurrection, the church we climbed to yesterday, and could see how much higher we’d gone today. Very satisfying.

The climb down was much quicker, choosing little alleys and streets we hadn’t walked up, knowing that all we needed to do was continue down and we would eventually find ourselves back where we started. Walking down is not really any easier than up though, the steps are uneven with variable tread and rise, so we expect to be a little sore tomorrow!

All the while we were wondering how on earth you would live in such a steep place, with so many steps that you couldn’t even get by with a scooter. How would you get your groceries home?? Well, as it happened, the answer was just around the corner. And aren’t they sweet!!

By early afternoon we were back in our hotel and enjoying another spectacle as the ferry came in to disgorge trucks, buses, cars and people, then take on more of the same. Amongst the passengers there appeared to be several buses, and hordes of teenagers swarming off the ferry.

Hubby had a post-lunch nap, and I sat on the balcony in the sun and watched the endless activity of the harbour. It seemed to be quite the ferry day today, with lots coming and going in the lovely afternoon sunshine.

A little later we wandered into town for some more exploring, looking firstly for the archeological museum. It wasn’t all that easy to find, until we saw the sign, that is! But even then, the door is very unassuming, and as it happens, closed both today and tomorrow. This we discovered having enlisted the help of a nearby teenage boy who spoke English, and was able to read the sign on the door for us.

We wandered through the nearby Town Hall, which is an attractive building, and then continued zig-zagging our way through the narrow streets, until we came to the wharf area where a local fisherman was cleaning his catch on the sea-side of the breakwater. He said “groper” but they didn’t look big enough.

The harbour looked very pretty in the afternoon sunshine.

Finally we settled on a restaurant for dinner, only to be swamped by aforementioned hordes of high school students who turned out to be on an excursion to Syros. After seeing them exit the ferry, we’d then seen them wandering in packs during the afternoon, so it wasn’t a total surprise, and we’d asked a few where they were from (Athens) and how long they were in Syros (3 days). I guess we should expect to see them around tomorrow too.

Another ferry was leaving as we returned to our hotel, and it made a lovely picture as it sailed away under what looked to be a full moon.